Tag Archives: Garb

The Dreaded Plaited Braid Stitch

2015 has started!!!! With this thought I post the project that is on my desk at the beginning of this new year.. The Plaited Braid Stitch.. ( PBS)  This stitch has always been intimidating and for that reason,it has been kept on the back burner.  Not anymore, with Elizabethan Stitches by Jacqui Carey at my side, needle threaded, i conquered the stitch..

With the lower part of the sleeves redwork completed, it was time for the PBS.  With a deep breath I proceeded.  Following the instructions in Elizabethan Stiches, the PBS was started using DMC  Art 284, metallic thread.  The following pictures are of the completed piece so far.

front view

front view

Close up of back PBS

Close up of back PBS

Plaited Braid Stitch

Plaited Braid Stitch

Sleeve off scroll frame.

Sleeve off scroll frame.

As this new year starts with a rush, remember to create and inspire!!! Thank you all for the support and comments as this blog moves forward.. May we have a wonderful year creating, sharing and learning together..

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January 1, 2015 · 9:51 am

A World in Transformation

The Past 7 months have been a whirlwind of change.   As the saying goes :

“When one door closes, another door opens; but we so often look so long and regretfully upon the closed door, that we do not see the ones which open for us.”  ― Alexander Graham Bell
 
For a couple of months I looked at the doors closing as an ending, my life frozen in place.  As the days and weeks passed i began to see all the open doors.  Stepping through takes courage, or the ability to just run and jump, but once you step over the threshold the world brightens.  
 
I am now in my very own home!!  Yes, I said mine not rented!!!  And, it has acorns and oak leaves in the wrought iron used on the front  patio and by windows. This house has an added addition of a “craft/sewing room”  that will stay that way.  Great windows with lots of natural light.  Plenty of space for all the toys and a very large closet.. 
 
My helper cats are loving actually having carpeting in the bedrooms instead of concrete.  I have a full kitchen ( all the drawers are there, there is a fridge and dishwasher, and most  no more bugs!!)  There is something great about owning..         
 
As the process to purchase moved forward I continued to embroider and sew.   Now that the boxes are mostly unpacked and the settling is finished I have time to refocus on my creative side.  In the next couple of weeks I will be posting those adventures.   
 
As time continues to move forward and more doors open it is my hope to inspire others to create.. Remember as doors close, turn around, there are others that have opened!
 

Now for a couple sneak peaks of  the coming postings:

 

wpid-20141020_135824-kdcollage.jpg wpid-20141020_134837-kdcollage.jpg

                                                                                                 

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Looking back

A couple of years ago I started to do a sideless surcoat.  I used fabric that was in my stash and started beading.. The fabric was white with a diamond pattern that was perfect to embellish.  Being from the Kingdom of Trimaris  blue and silver beads would be perfect.  It never occurred to me that this would turn into a year long project.  The pieces traveled with me everywhere, even at the airport where an audience gathered and asked questions.  It was amazing that one of the question/statements from an older lady was “Women in America still hand sew?”.
full view sideless surcoat front

Full view sideless surcoat Front. ( fur pinned on)

 

This is a full front view.  The beads are from neck to floor and the fur is a 2″ width pinned on.   The over dress is lined in cotton and the bottom band is of linen (blue to carry on the Theme of Trimaris colors).

 

 

 

 

 

                Here you see a picture of the lower back of the gown.  The beading is done with the outline of  a V to avoid sitting on any beads.  The upper back is also lacking beads for the same reason.  This would not have occurred if I had not sat on one of the beaded pieces and decided this was not a good feeling.  It also would put more wear and tear on those beads.. And after the time it took to do this it would be unlikely that it would be repaired quickly.. 🙂

sideless surcoat back

 

 Now to give you some close ups of the beading itself… 

 

DSCN0618

beading close-up  blue seed bead with 4 silver beads clustered around

beading close-up blue seed bead with 4 silver beads clustered around

lower back of dress showing V

lower back of dress showing V 

This post has been inspired because this dress was recently pulled out of the closet and worn with the blue cotehardie under-dress..  “wow”  I really need to finish this off correctly.  As I took out the rings lacing on the cotehardie (pics to follow) i was amazed how much I have learned and how many mistakes I made.  As the tedious job of taking apart all the hand stitches thoughts of how could I have entered this in GW open competition as a work in progress….   Though the comments were encouraging and getting both yellow and white bead made me happy now that I have moved forward it is obvious how much growing has occurred in two years.  
Now comes the “refurbishment”  of this ensemble..   The Triskels need to be added to the blue band, eyelets need to be handsewn down the back of the cotehardie, and the fur needs to be applied differently.  So with fur flying and seam ripper in action lets see what happens….  

 

 

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Prototype dress and hat done

Finally finished my dress and got the basic underpinnings all gathered and it rained.  Here are pictures minus the feathers for the hat and the sleeves due to the rain.  Have the basics figured out and now for the real dress.  Need to pull out stash and see what I have to do the next one. 🙂

 

at MMM 2013 bee hat font picture. sir trud and I at MMM 2013

 

Plans for next few months: continue working on the embroidery for the new smock, cut and start shell for a doublet, learn about pad stitching and practice,  finish patterning and cutting a farthingale and finally do a second body using silk as cover.  🙂

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finished corset

The Corset is finished.  I am truly glad I did a prototype first as there are things I will do different for my silk one.  It was a great learning experience and I will post a more complete description in the following weeks.  but here is the  final product.Finished corset on dress form back view finished corset side view finished corset on dress form

 

So many small fixes to do to the pattern but all in all for my first totally hand sewn one i am happy.

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Moving along

the 29 eyelets are completed.. Learned many new things in the process.  Onto finishing the edges and then finished!!  Here is another sneak peak of how far I am..
sneak peak front side eyelets   
I hope to have it completed in the next day..  will post the completed project with the steps that I did. 🙂  
 
 

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Corset 2/3 Channeled.

This project has been a wonderful learning experience.  Using waxed linen thread does take some getting used to but once you do you will not use poly/cotton again.  The cost was very reasonable and the hand is wonderful.  Creating the channels on the back piece pins were used.  Due to the movement of the fabric that changed to basting all the layers together.  This worked and the end result was an evenly channeled product.

After posting this blog the question about zip ties came up again.. No, it is not wrong to use them,  it is just a choice.  Is it easier to use zip ties?  I have to say no.  You have the filing and sanding of the ends, if you go for the cheaper thin zip ties you will have to double them up to get the result you are looking for.  Again my fathers words ” Do it right the first time”  echo in my mind.  Yes it is taking longer to hand sew.  Yes I have to hunt and order the linen thread and reeds instead of running to Walmart.  But in the long run for me, it is the journey of creating this.

As the project progresses it comes to mind how did they do this with out using a strong light.  ( I have an Ott light). How did they find time to cloth their family.  They did not have the same sharp precise scissors, rulers and resources we do.. There is truly no right or wrong to how you choose to create your garb.  Whether you use zip ties or reeds the journey is what is important not the end result.  Don’t judge others encourage them to enjoy the journey.

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